Emergency Crate Training... and more.
It is always best to crate train your dog from the time he's a pup, to avoid emergency crate training situations, but if this is not the case, then don't give into the barking, the howling and the big, sad eyes! It's never too late to start crate training your dog! A clicker, a flashlight, a special word, a whistle, etc. is a tool to mark a specific behavior, to tell the dog exactly what it did right, at the exact moment that they did it and is immediately followed with a reward. The idea is to show the dog possitive reinforcement of things it does well. The dog will soon learn to associate the clicker with something it did that will result in a reward, and will want to do it again and again to get more rewards (dogs are smart)

Click, and immediatly give him a tiny treat. Repeat 10 times (waiting until the dog finishes the previous treat and is waiting for the next to repeat). In one minute the dog will learn that when he hears the click, a treat is coming. *Important* If your dog currently has a disc herniation, has already started his 6-8 weeks of crate rest, and is restless, skip the following steps and go directly to Barking you may retake the entire training program once the crate rest period is over.

Afterwards, go with the dog to the crate. Throw big treat or cookie to the BACK of the crate. If the dog makes any attempt to look at the cookie in back of crate, click and treat. If the dog goes in the crate to get the cookie, let doggie eat the cookie and then click and give a jackpot of little tiny treats. NEVER close the crate door at this point.

Doggie turns around to leave crate, click before they leave, give treat.

At first, remain at all times close to the dog with the door open. Drop a little treat from the top of the crate towards the back so that the dog begins to think the crate grows yummy treats and thinks only good things of the crate (and stops thinking it's jail).

Slowly condition the dog that when you close the crate door, they hear the click and get a treat. You must NEVER put dog in the crate without giving it a treat.

Most dogs have a favorite raw bone (like a beef neck bone or a marrow bone that you scoop out the yellow filling, etc) that you can get from the butcher and that will help them enjoy their crate time. Especially, a real frozen one, that takes them all day to devour. If not, a good frozen yoghurt kong will also work.

NEVER use the crate as a punishment place by taking the dog in it after it has done something wrong.

BARKING:
If your dog begins barking and howling while in the crate, give no eye contact. Ignore her. Turn your back, go to another room, no talking, not even to say QUIET. When calm, use your clicker to show the dog that being calm is the correct behaviour and proceed to give a treat and attention. As soon as there is barking and whinning again, leave. Soon the dog will learn that being quiet gets treats and attention.

POTTY:
Again, use your clicker when you take the dog outside to where it has pottied before or other dogs have (during potty training, do not remove completly all previous potties, so the dog has a mark of where to go). Say the magic words: Go potty and let the dog sniff around. If it goes potty, immediatly click and treat. If it took you too long to take the dog outside and it had an accident inside, use it! Rub a newspaper on it and place it outside to mark where the dog has to go, and take him there on the next potty break. During the entire potty training do not punish the dog, give him the evil eye or say harsh words if he has an accident, we're doing possitive training here.

NOTE: A clicker is not the only device that can be used. A small LED keychain flashlight for the deaf (dog should be looking for the flash, not the spot of light. If your dog is watching for the spot, choose something other than a light for your click.)

Any accidents inside must never be cleaned with an ammonia product, instead use white vinegar in a spray bottle to clean with.

Disclaimer:
This information is presented for educational purposes and as a resource for the Dachshund community. The coordinators are not veterinarians or health care professionals. Nothing herein should be interpreted as medical advice and all should contact their pet care professionals for advice. The coordinators are not responsible for the substance and content contained herein and do not advocate any particular product, item or position contained herein.
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