Have your vet give
you a demo first to show you the required hand pressure. This
is something that is hard to describe in writing.
It may be necessary
to go back to the clinic the next day to have the vet/vet tech
check your technique while you are expressing your dog and ensure
that you were able to get all the urine out of the bladder.
Attaining proficiency
in expressing all the urine at a session takes practice - it's
not learned on the first try. It can be mastered with a little
bit of practice. You CAN do it!
Positions
and locations
Other positions:
Sit on a stool with dog seated in front of you (male faces
away, female is seated with head facing you).
Kneel in the grass with male dog's rear leaning against your
thigh, female would have head near your thigh.
Dog is in a wheelchair.
On the toilet (not recomended until after a conservatively
treated dog has finished crate rest. A dog needs to learn his
balance and to feel safe and comfortable. While healing is not
the time to train for this).
Dog is prone on the floor or a counter.
Where? in the tub, shower stall, outdoors, on
a pee pad, on a counter.
Indoor expressing station for Clark during
post-op crate rest at night and inclement weather. While learning
to express, the tub is well lighted, a good place to clean up
urine from the skin. For a dog that has not had surgery and
is still on crate rest, protecting the back from movement is
important. The tub or a shower stall provides a non-skid, low,
flat surface where your dog should feel safe. Expressing right
outside the crate on a pee pad is a good alternative.
Expressing
while standing or seated
When the bladder is full, you will be pressing the flat hand slightly
downward on the top of bladder against the flat of your fist with
the bladder captured in between. When the bladder is full, a light
pressure is all that is required to cause release of urine. Laurie
Miller, Registered Veterinary Technician, reminds us to: "be
careful not to poke the bladder with your nails or ends of your
fingers." Use a flat hand or the flat
of your fist.
From above the dog,
place your hand as far back into hip area as possible. Notice
how far back the right-hand pinky is into the thigh area in the
insert picture on the right.
The bladder varies in size, shape and position depending on how
much urine it contains. As the bladder shrinks, your hands move
inwards gently, with a consistent pressure. As the bladder gets
smaller, cup your right-hand fingers to trap the slithery bladder.
Use the right-hand pinky to find the bladder hiding back in the
hip/thigh area. Slow, gentle, consistent pressing is not painful
to the pup.
Alex, a female, is
placed on a pee pad. Her owner's hand is under the stomach approximately
at the next-to-last set of nipples. The nipples are a starting
point to find the correct area on your dog. The right hand with
fingers together and palm down presses with even, steady pressure
against the left hand. As the bladder gets smaller, the bottom
left hand can be cupped a bit to trap the bladder from moving.
As the bladder empties, it may slide back into the leg area --
simply slide your hands toward the hip/thigh area. Pull the bladder
with your pinky finger out into the cupped bottom hand. When you
press on the "sweet spot " of the bladder, the tail
may begin to move and urine will come out.
There may be a delayed
reaction until the urine comes out -- hold pressure three to
six seconds before repositioning hands.
You need to express
until urine comes out in dribbles rather than a stream, then
the bladder is pretty much empty.
Sometimes waiting
10-20 seconds and pressing again gives the bladder time to reform,
and you still can get more urine out. Keep trying until you
find the "sweet spot."
Sometimes your dachsie
will tense up his stomach muscles, wait until he relaxes so
you can feel for the bladder. A warm towel from the dryer on
the stomach can help relax the dog when you are just learning.
Tapping gently on the tummy to jiggle the muscles will also
help relax a tight tummy.
When the bladder
is really full, you will not discern a shape, just a firm stomach
which is the bladder. As the bladder empties, it may feel like
a small plum. When empty, it goes flat. As the bladder empties
and gets smaller, it will move around, so it will not always
be in the same position in the body. You will need to feel for
it. You'll probably find it's moved farther back into the hip
area.
If your dachsie
wiggles during expressing, it can cause the bladder to slide
out from your hands.
NOTE:
Some dogs are just harder to express initially. Ask your vet about
Phenoxybenzamine, a drug that helps relax the urinary sphincter
and makes expressing easier. When bladder function is beginning
to return, it can also be more difficult to express. A test to
verify if bladder function has returned: Let the dog sniff a previous
pee spot in the grass. If the dog urinates right after, that shows
a message has been able to travel from the brain to the bladder!
It will be necessary to manually check after urination until you
are satisfied the dog can empty the bladder fully.
Tips
by Amy, Neuro Vet Tech
Steady even pressure
(not a pulsing type of action) works best. Never a drastic or
jarring or even sudden punching type of technique.
When dealing with
a really tense abdomen best to try bladder expression 20-30
minutes after administering muscle relaxants like Diazepam/Valium
or Methacarbomal or after a touching and massage session until
routine and new habit is formed
Use command or same
wording every time you do it... "Okay, now let's do PP"
will help with cooperation or learned response- just like puppy
potty training
Also be routine!
Figure out a place to do it and a pattern. Dogs are creatures
of habit. Routines make them happy.
There are so many
levels of bladder recovery. My Buc can initiate a stream but
still can't empty his bladder!
The first
reason to express is to avoid urinary tract infections that can
be difficult to clear up and which could ultimately lead to kidney
failure.
The second reason is you do not want the bladder to overflow and
be stretched out of shape on a prolonged basis. A bladder that
has lost muscle tone due to over-stretching may affect the dog's
ability to regain bladder control, or extend the time it takes
to regain bladder control.
When first learning to express, try every three to four hours
during the day and just before bedtime. As you become proficient
in expressing, move to three times a day (every four to six hours).
That is typically how often a normal dog would pee. Dogs not allowed
to void their bladders at least three times a day could be more
prone to UTIs.
While
learning to express, it is better to express more often and have
the pup drink water (1/8 cup) to keep the bladder flushed. Adjust
the expressing schedule according to your dog's needs as you get
more comfortable with expressing.
Note:
If a dog is on Prednisone or another steroid, they will likely
need to be expressed every two to three hours until off this medication.
Steroids create thirst and thus more urine production. Always
provide access to water while on steroids.
If you've been away at work or in the morning upon waking, give
extra water (flavored with low-sodium broth if necessary) to flush
out the stale urine in the bladder. It takes about 1 1/2 hours
for liquids to process and reach the bladder. Stop water access
three hours before bedtime. Express right before you turn in for
the night, and your pup should have a dry night.
Thirty
to 60 minutes prior to '"the time" you can encourage the
muscle to expel feces. Stroke the area on both sides of the rectum
with thumb and forefinger. You will feel that there is poop in the
rectum. Muscles will now start to push out the content of the colon.
The
good news is auto reflex causes all the poop to come out on its
own. All you need to do is figure out your dachsie's schedule
so you can act before surprise poop ends up on the floor.
Feed your dachshund
a good
diet of quality protein and low or no corn (corn has a higher
fiber content than other grains). If you feed a dry food, soak
the kibble with an equal amount of water. Provide access to water
during the day. Dogs normally take in about
20 to 40 milliliters per pound of body weight per day or about
3 to 4 cups of water per day for a 20 pound dog. The water is
a combined total of both moisture contained in the food and liquid
intake. You'll find smaller and nicely formed BM's
to deal with when food has less fiber. Feed twice a day, and you'll
have two to three poops a day.
Another technique to
encourage a bowel movement is to use a Q-tip and KY or other water-soluble
gel: Insert just a bit of the tip in the anus and make a circle
(don't just twirl the Q-tip but sort of draw a circle with
it) until the sphincter opens and the dog pushes it out. This
will also stimulate the bowels to push the fecal matter out along
with the Q-tip.
When
the dog is finished, squeeze the sides of the anus to stimulate
the emptying of the anal glands. A healthy dog, squatting, would
empty the glands normally when going on its own. But we must do
this for a paralyzed dog to prevent anal glands from getting too
full.
Paralyzed dogs may
not have regular, daily, bowel movements. They must go a minimum
of every other day to avoid developing painful, hardened (or hard)
stools. The fiber in pumpkin, along with water, will soften stools.
Add one teaspoon canned, plain, pureed pumpkin one time per day
to equal amounts of kibble and water, plus other liquids during
the day).
To know how long it
takes for your dachsie to process food, put a few small pieces
of raw carrot or kernels of frozen corn in with dinner. The veggie
pieces don't digest — watch for the stool with veggies
and you'll know your pup's digesting time. Often you will
be able to park your pup's butt over the toilet and then
flush away…. How easy is that!!
Disclaimer:
This information is presented for educational purposes and as
a resource for the Dachshund community. The coordinators are not
veterinarians or health care professionals. Nothing herein should
be interpreted as medical advice and all should contact their
pet care professionals for advice. The coordinators are not responsible
for the substance and content contained herein and do not advocate
any particular product, item or position contained herein.